AREZZO.
We can glimpse Arezzo on arriving in the evening, seeing it in greater detail on
the following day. Arezzo was an Etruscan city but in the 4th century BC
prudently allied with Rome, avoiding the destruction of its fellow-cities. It
enjoyed a considerable artistic lowering during the turbulent Middle -
Ages and during the Renaissance. Among others, Francesco Petrarch and
Giorgio Vasari were born here.
The first thing to see is the attractive but oddly shaped Piazza Grande with
monuments of various periods: the picturesque little palace of the
Fraternita dei Laici, Palazzo Colton with its battlemented turret,
the high tower of Palazzo Lappoli, the fine apse and galleries of the Pieve (parish
church) of Santa Maria (11° century, altered in the 13° century).
From the apse one arrives at the marvellous Romanesque facade, whose portico is
surmounted by three orders of loggias of different sizes. The central porch has
a fine sculptured frieze of the Months: inside, among many other works of art,
an Altarpiece by Pietro Lorenzetti (1320) on High Altar. Along Corso Italia one
reaches Palazzo del Preform, with its stone coats-of-arms and then the
simple Casa del Petrarca (Petrarch's house) and the Cathedral, a noble
mass of dark stone in Gothic-Romanesque style, begun in 1278: in the interior
the magnificent soaring windows by Guglielmo di Marcillat (14° cent.) and the
monumental Tomb of Bishop Tarlati (1330). After a look at the 14th century
Palazzo Comunale we arrive at the neighbour ing Church of San Domenico
(1275) with remarkable frescoes by Spinello Aretino. From this point one can
easily reach the Casa del Vasari (Vasari's house) in Via XX Settembre,
frescoed by the artist who was its owner. On the corner of Via San Lorentino and
Via Garibaldi are the Museum and Picture Gallery with collections of
majolica and paintings, among which the important St. Francis by Margaritone
d'Arezzo, one of the first signed works in Italian painting, a Madonna and
Saintsby Luca Signorelli and the powerful Ascent to Calvary by Rosso Fiorentino.
Via Cavour is close at hand and this takes us to San Francesco, a basilica of
severe Franciscan form (1322), famous throughout the world for the cycle
inspired by the Legend of the Cross painted there by Piero della
Francesca(1452-1466) (See: The Ten Capitals of Italian Painting).
Going from Corso Italia through Via Crispi we arrive at the Roman
Amphitheatre, near which there is an Archaeological Museum, with Etruscan
and Roman pottery and fine Etruscan bronzes. Now going along Viale Mecenate,
one can reach the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie (1.5 km.-1 mi.) with
its charming Portal by Benedetto da Maiano.
The afternoon should be devoted to a trip to Borgo Sansepolcro (38 km. - 23
3/4 mi.) to complete ones acquaintance with Piero della Francesco (who was
born here) with two important paintings: the Madonna della Misericordia and the
impressive Resurrection in the little Municipal Picture Gallery. Leaving Arezzo,
one climbs to the Face di Scopetone (526 m.-1725 ft.); there is a fine view and
an even better one of the Upper Tiber Valley, before beginning the descent to
Sansepolcro where one can eat before returning to Arezzo for the night.
In the morning we set off again from Arezzo through beautiful hills dotted with
farms and villages.
We leave Arezzo in the afternoon of the twelfth day and drive up (20 miles) to BIBBIENA
with its Palazzo Dovizi, and the Romanesque church of SS. Ippolito e Donato (excellent
14° century paintings). From here we drive on through majestic mountain
scenery to the Mandrioli Pass, over which we enter Romagna and reach (40 miles
from Arezzo) Bagno di Romagna, San Piero in Bagno, and Sarsina (ancient Roman
town and birthplace of Plautus). After Mercato Saraceno, we come to CESENA (76
miles from Arezzo). Since by now it must be evening, we shall continue without
stopping to the Via Emilia and 19 miles later reach RIMINI