PISA.
Here is another ancient city, first Greek, then Etruscan and Roman; a great
Maritime Republic and finally part of the Medici Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Pisa
developed its own architectural style by blending classical and oriental forms.
Great Italian Gothic sculpture was also born at Pisa with Nicola Pisano's school
which produced Giovanni Pisano, Arnolfo da Cambio, and Andrea and Nino Pisano.
From the early 11° to the late 14° centuries Pisa was one of the greatest and
most active Italian centres of art. Proof of this is the remarkable group of
buildings constituted by the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Leaning Tower and the adjacent
Cemetery which, in their unspoiled isolation, form one of the most solemn
and enchanting corners in all of Italy. We cannot even attempt to list the works
of art produced by this extraordinary flowering: from the superb bronze Doors by Bonanno (late 12° century) to the
Pulpit by Giovanni Pisano (1310) in the Cathedral; from the mosaics, to the
paintings by Cimabue, Andrea del Santo, Beccafumi, and Sodoma; from the
inlaid woodwork in the choir, to the Tomb which Tino da Camaino sculptured for
the Emperor Henry VII, and to the incredible collection of Greek, Roman and
medieval sculptures which throng the four sides of the 14°-15° century
Cemetery beneath a veritable treasure-house of medieval frescoes. The chain of
artistic miracles continues unbroken in architectural setting untouched by the
passing of the centuries.
Having finished our visit to the Cathedral and the surrounding buildings, we go
down Via S. Maria to the River Arno, where we find the church of San Nicola and next, to in the 16° century Palazzo
Reale (Royal Palace), overlooking the river : and before reaching the
Citadel, we cross Ponte Solferino and walk down the other side of the river,
coming to San Paolo a Ripa d'Aroo,
with a Romanesque facade similar to that of the Cathedral and containing
excellent works of sculpture. Returning to our walk along the river and passing
the bridge, we come to the extremely charming little church of S. Maria della Spina a jewel of Pisan-Gothic architecture.
Following the river to Ponte di Mezzo, past a row of beautiful old palaces, and
passing the 17th century Loggia Banchi,
we reach, by way of Via San Martino, in what was the quarter of the Arab
merchants, the very ancient octagonal church
of the Holy Sepulchre (Santo Sepolcro) (12° century), with its picturesque
interior. Here stands the great church of
San Martino, containing several beautiful paintings. From here we return to
the river, cross the Ponte alla Fortezza, which affords magnificent views of the
Lungarni (river banks), and come to the Lungarno Mediceo, where we find the
National Museum, an extremely important collection of paintings (Simone
Martini, Fra Angelico, Masaccio, Gentile da Fin briano, Sodoma, etc., as well as
a superb group of primitives) and of Greek, Roman, medieval and Renaissance
sculpture. Taking Via Giovanni di Simone, we come to the
church of San Francesco (inside, frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi and Nicolo and
Pietro Gerini), and from there to S.
Caterina, Gothic, with panel paintings by Traini and sculpture by Nina
Pisano. We go next to the Palazzo della
Carovana (1562), designed by Vasari, with its painted facade, the Palazzo dell'Orologio, and the
church of S. Stefano dei Cavalieri. We are now in the centre of Pisa and may
wander through its ancient streets, lined with beautiful buildings. We will pass
the handsome church of S. Michele in
Borgo, with Gothic arches and a facade in the Pisan style (14° century), on
our way to Piazza Garibaldi, the bustling centre of today's city life.
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From here, beyond the dense pine wood of San Rossore, we take the Autostrada
which, after 54 miles, brings us to PISTOIA